Human skin itself contains large amounts of ceramides. Together with cholesterol and free fatty acids, ceramides form a complex lamellar membrane that fills the interstitial space between keratinocytes. It accounts for about 40 to 55 percent. Ceramide powder bulk in the basal cell layer and dermis are mainly distributed in the nuclear membrane, inner and outer mitochondrial membranes, and so on. Ceramides in the upper epidermal layer are mainly distributed in lamellar vesicles, interstitial spaces of keratinocytes, etc.
Ceramide powder bulk are made from sphingosine analogues and long-chain fatty acids bound by amide bonds. It is synthesised and secreted by lamellar vesicles. This repairs damaged skin barrier function by increasing skin hydration and reducing transepidermal water loss.
Ceramides are like peptides. This is a very large class with 16 subtypes identified in current research. Different fatty acids with different long chain bases make up the different subtypes of ceramides. They are found in different proportions in the stratum corneum of the skin.
Among them, the long-chain bases can be classified as neurosphingosine (S), dihydrosphingosine (DS), phytosphingosine (P) and 6-OH sphingosine (H). Fatty acids can be classified as non-hydroxy fatty acids (N), α-OH fatty acids (A), ω-OH fatty acids (EO), and esterified ω-OH fatty acids (EOH). Combining the two constitutes the ceramide NP, NH, AH, NDS, AS, AP, EOP, NS and other ceramide isoforms.
What Is Ceramide NP?
Ceramide NP is an important ceramide subclass in the skin's stratum corneum. It consists of phytosphingosine and non-hydroxy fatty acids. It has the highest percentage in the human stratum corneum compared to other ceramide subtypes. This amounts to 22.1 percent.
Ceramide NP is not one substance, but a general term for a large group of ceramides with similar structural principles. Both ceramide 3 and ceramide 3B belong to this category of ceramide NP. The fatty acid portion of ceramide 3 is stearic acid. Ceramide 3B is an oleic acid, which is constructed by amide bonding with phytosphingosine (P), respectively.
What is the function of ceramide NP in the skin?
• Moisturises and locks in water:
Ceramide NP penetrates the skin quickly. It binds water molecules in the stratum corneum and forms a mesh structure to lock in water. This not only strengthens the adhesion between the cells of the stratum corneum but also improves the dryness of the skin and reduces flaking. Ceramide powder bulk significantly promotes the expression of the filamentous polyprotein (FLG), the main source of the natural moisturizing factor NMF. As a highly effective moisturizer, Ceramide NP is 16 times more effective than hyaluronic acid. It is easily absorbed by the skin. It also promotes the penetration of other nutrients and has a moisturizing effect of up to 80% on aged dry skin.
• Enhances skin barrier function:
Ceramide NP and cell surface proteins bond cells through an ester bond connection to form lipid-cell-protein inclusions. It not only maintains the integrity of the sebaceous membrane but also strengthens the keratinocyte layer. This enhances epidermal cell cohesion and achieves thickening of the stratum corneum.
• Soothing and anti-allergic:
Ceramide NP connects the lipid matrix to the keratinized cells, reducing the entry of harmful substances into the skin through the pores and sweat glands. This has an anti-allergic effect. Ceramide NP inhibits the onset of apoptosis in the inflammatory response and reduces the damage to tissue structure caused by the inflammatory response. For sensitive skin, supplementation with Ceramide NP helps to repair redness and avoid sensitivity.
• Slows down aging:
By increasing the water-holding capacity of aging cells, ceramide powder bulk helps reduce wrinkles. It not only enhances skin elasticity, but also inhibits the expression of matrix metalloproteinase MMP, scavenges free radicals, and stimulates fibroblast proliferation. This can achieve the effect of slowing down skin aging.
• Ceramide NP offers numerous advantages over other active ingredients. As an invisible umbrella for the skin, ceramide NP has an important place in skin care and skin therapy.
The Skin Barrier and Ceramide NP
The skin is the largest organ of the human body. It plays an important role in maintaining the homeostasis of the organism's internal environment and in defending against damage from harmful external factors. Skin barrier function in a narrow sense usually refers to the epidermis. Especially the physical or mechanical barrier structure of the stratum corneum.
The main feature of the skin barrier is the stratum corneum lipids consisting of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol. The stratum corneum has a certain equimolar ratio of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol. The stratum corneum exhibits a corresponding organizational structure, thus ensuring the integrity of the skin. In contrast, an abnormal arrangement or disturbance of the stratum corneum lipids will result in a compromised skin barrier and an abnormal immune response.
Studies have shown that the biosynthesis of ceramide NP ceramide powder bulk is down-regulated or degraded in skin diseases. Such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. Changes in the amount or quality of ceramide will directly affect the normal function of the skin barrier.
What causes a decrease in ceramide NP levels?
Ceramide NP is one of the key substances reflecting skin barrier function. When there is a significant decrease in the amount of ceramide NP, the skin barrier function is weakened. When the epidermis is damaged, the process of recovery of the skin barrier function is rapidly initiated and the synthesis of ceramide NP is increased. For damaged skin, by topical application of ceramide NP. Replenishing the reduced ceramides to the stratum corneum to restore the skin barrier function is safe and effective.
Scientists tested the effects of emollients containing ceramide NP on skin barrier structure and function in older adults with dry skin. In people over 60 years of age with dry skin (n = 21), the effects of 28 days of treatment with the test emollient (TE) on skin surface pH (a), hydration (b), redness (c), water loss (d), and SC integrity (e) were compared to untreated controls (NTC).
The moisturizing effect of the test emollients on the skin was significantly stronger and lasted longer compared to the control emollients. This effect was associated with a significant elevation of carboxylic acid groups in the stratum corneum. In addition, the treatment with the test emollient resulted in a significant decrease in curd trypsin-like activity and a decrease in trypsin-like activity. The test emollient safeguards the structure and function of the skin barrier. In conclusion, the test emollient addresses the pathological features of dry and aging skin.
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